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Easiest (good for you) Dinner Recipe EVER! Even your finickiest eater will LOVE!!! Chicken and Spinach Casserole (YES your little one that will only eat chicken nuggets will even love this!)

Recipe with spinach that all will love!!!

While I have been fighting my store page to get everything on it and get the page to work correctly (uugghhh), I have been trying to think of something to post about that doesn’t take a ton of research. As I was eating dinner tonight I thought of it! The recipe for what I was eating!!! I don’t know of anyone that doesn’t like new recipes that take only a few minutes of put together time that everyone will eat and love!!! I am sorry I didn’t think of it until after we were all eating so I could get a pic for you guys, so please when you make it comment with a pic ūüôā please… 

I have been making this for…. let’s just say decades lol. And even my meat and potatoes boy that will not eat any greens what so ever and only has ketchup on his burger even loves this!

So how do you make it? EASY PEASY!! Keep in mind that you can play around with the amounts depending on what you like best of everything in it except the Ritz crackers, it’s the zing that makes everything go together and taste so good!!!


2 – 2.5 oz can of Chunk Chicken (I use Swanson’s white meat) 

1 – 10 1/2 oz can Cream of ____ (you fill in the blank with your favorite, I use Campbell’s Cream of Chicken)

1 – 10 oz bag of Frozen Chopped Spinach (thawed and drained)

2 – cups of shredded cheese (use your favorite here as well, I use Colby jack it is also great with cheddar)

2 – sleeves of crushed Ritz crackers


Save 1 cup of the cheese and 1 sleeve of the ritz and mix the rest together in a 9″x11″ casserole dish. I find it easier to crush the Ritz in the sleeve above the casserole dish just in case it pops open. 

Once you get it all mixed together, top it off with the remaining cheese then the other sleeve of Ritz. 

Pop it in a 375¬į oven for about 35-40 minutes and you have a great dinner!!! 

Let me know how much your family loves it along with pics of the casserole before and the clean plates after to get entered in to win 3 of my new soaps!!! 

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All Natural Bath & Beauty Product Line

Hi guys! I am sorry I haven’t posted in a while… We have been studying all natural ingredients in order to make our new Bath & Beauty line. We have been hard at work trying out different recipes with several different types of essential oils. We even have enlisted family and friends to test them out and see what actually works and what doesn’t. 

We have found several recipes that don’t do enough to make them worth the time or the money and others that work surprisingly well! We will have a products page up soon so you can purchase the ones that made it through the test. We will also be giving out recipes so you can make some of them yourselves. 

We will also be offering an informative section to show how to use the Bath & Beauty line to help heal the mind and body while you’re simply relaxing in a bath or going through your beauty regiment. 

This is an exciting time so please stay tuned there is so much coming!!! 

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DIY Geode Bath Bomb Recipe Tutorial

The DIY Geode Bath Bomb Recipe Tutorial. After taking the Geode Bath Bomb Tutorials to the test a couple of weeks ago, I decided there had to be a way to make these lovely¬†creatures without wanting to scream out words that I couldn’t in front of my children. So I went to work¬†determined to come up with a no-fail way for anyone that lives anywhere to make. And here it is!


March 25th – Temp 67¬į Humidity 67%
March 26th – Temp 54¬į Humidity Level 76%

First of all, If you have worked with bath bombs you know that differences in humidity and dew point levels greatly affect what happens with bath bombs. Take these for example. Do you know what the only difference was other than the color? 1 day and 9 percent difference in humidity. In Alabama, where I live, the temperature and humidity levels can change drastically from one day to the next. The moisture levels make a huge difference in anything you are making that contains citric acid. The picture to your right was made with the exact same recipe as the one on the left, yet it continued to rise like it was bread made with yeast. You can see how it looks just a couple of minutes after it was made.


DIY Geode Bath Bomb Recipe Tutorial

Materials for DIY Geode Bath Bomb Recipe Tutorial

For your convenience, I have provided a link to all of the items I have found that works well for me on Amazon. Every one is Prime eligible some are Prime Pantry. Find out how to save money with Amazon here. Some items may cost a few cents more than another brand, yet due to one thing or another have found I like these better. If you have any questions about any product please fill free to ask me here or in the comment box below. Most of the basic, everyday type of ingredients I purchase from Wal-Mart. I have bought the small 7.5 oz of citric acid from Wal-Mart as well (only size my local store carries.) The citric acid Wal-Mart carries is 98% citric acid the brand I have found I like the best is from Amazon is 100% pure and is a non-GMO product. If you do not intend on making very many fizzy type bath and shower products the cost is reasonable.My local store, a 7.5oz container runs $2.97. You can get approximately 4 batches of this size out of one bottle. (I am not affiliated with Wal-Mart in any way and do not receive compensation for mentioning them.)

DIY Geode Bath Bomb Recipe Ingredients:


  • Mixing bowl
  • Whisk
  • Scraping Spatula – Find it here on Amazon
  • small Misting spray bottle – helpful for adding witch hazel Find it here on Amazon¬†or at Wal-Mart in the travel size section for around $1.00


If you don’t have molds you can use the bottom of Easter eggs or anything you have in the correct shape. Make sure to clean your molds well to keep contaminants down.
This has become my basic bath bomb recipe. I have tried making them with water, alcohol, and/or witch hazel and this works best for me.
If you look at the actual bath bomb part of the finished Geode Bath Bombs you will see they are different colors. That is because I was trying my technique with each type of bath bomb I had made to make sure it worked every time. And guess what?
IT DID!!!    This worked with everything! From a plain bath bomb to Matcha Green Tea all the way to ones made with cocoa powder!

Instructions: How to Make Bath Bombs

  1. Dry ingredients: Whisk dry ingredients (baking soda,  Epsom salt, citric acid, and cornstarch) in a large bowl until well-combined Use scraping spatula around edges and bottom to make sure thoroughly mixed.
  2. Wet ingredients: Melt your coconut oil in the microwave for 20 seconds, if it still isn’t melted continue in 10-second increments until melted. Add approximately 15-25 drops of essential oil to your coconut oil. Keep in mind the scent will become less after the bath bomb dries so you may want to add several more drops after you reach the scent you like. Add in your colorant, I usually add 7-12 drops of soap dye depending on color. Stir with wooden stick/toothpick as well as you can then whisk into the dry ingredients. I haven’t had problems with oils causing the citric acid to react. To be safe and keep any possible reaction to a minimum, add the oil mixture slowly to your dry ingredients, whisking briskly as you add.
  3. Add water slowly whisking briskly while adding to keep fizzing reaction to a minimum. We want that to happen in the tub!
  4. CHECK MIXTURE. If you choose to wear gloves put them on now and squeeze a handful of your mixture together then drop it into your bowl. If it holds together without breaking skip to #6 If not continue to #5
  5. Add witch hazel to your spray bottle (mist not squirt type) and mist a little at a time while whisking briskly, checking mixture (see #4) regularly until it holds together without breaking. Be very careful not to get too wet or add to quickly..
  6. Fill mold about half way then push mixture onto the sides and bottom of the mold. Press in firmly then put in the refrigerator for 10 minutes. It is important not to leave for a prolonged period of time or it will not release from the mold.




Layout some wax/freezer paper. Quickly after removing from refrigerator, flip molds upside down and bang down onto wax paper to remove from the mold they should come right out.

Let the Geode shells (bath bombs) dry. This can take a few hours to overnight.






Make Into Geodes

You may want to place your Geode shells (bath bombs) back into the molds to help protect them from breaking while doing the next step. It isn’t necessary if they have dried and hardened completely. I also lean towards the safest way so I put them back in the molds

Natural Geode

Add 2-4 drops of colorant to coarse salt
  1. In a small container mix together 3 tablespoons of Epsom salt and ¬Ĺ teaspoon of melted coconut oil. This will be your first layer for your Geode.
  2. In a small container mix together course salt of your choice (I used rock salt) and 2-4 drops of colorant. This will be your middle layer.
  3. Press your Epsom salt mixture into the bath bomb taking it up the sides. I found it easier to press the center down first then work up the sides.
  4. Optional – press in uncolored white course salt layer
  5. Add your layer of colored course salt
  6. Paint melted coconut oil onto the top of finished Geode to hold it all together.

Once the salt layers have dried and set, carefully remove them from the mold.

I have tested this 12 times now and it has worked each and every time! Please share this with others.

Comment below and let us know how it works for you!

Affiliate Disclosure

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Amazon Prime with FREE TRIAL

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All of the links provided on Varied Visions to products on Amazon are Prime eligible!

I use Amazon so much I bought stock as well as joined their Associates Program. The Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites. So far by being a part of the Associates Program, I am able to provide free non-membership based content without advertising! I promise any links to actual products are ones that I use regularly.

You really need to try the free trial of Amazon Prime just to see how much money it saves you. Make sure you use everything you can to see just how much! I am a big reader and read at least 4 books a month if not more at an average cost of $9 each that is $36 a month by itself! I also order quite a bit from Amazon and with Prime, you get not only free shipping but free 2-day shipping! Not to mention the unlimited free cloud photo storage and free music. I honestly save several hundred dollars a year!

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New Savings/Benefits offered on Amazon (for me at least):


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FreeTime is an all-in-one subscription for kids from 3 to 12 years old that has unlimited access to thousands of kid-friendly books, movies, TV shows, educational apps, and games. It also has flexible parental controls where you can choose what content each child sees, set educational goals and time limits. These are ad-free, no in-app purchase options, no links to websites or social media either. I added it for Boo, my 11-year-old daughter, and put it on her Kindle Fire. If you recently purchased a Fire HD Kids Edition Tablet (4th Gen) you get a year for free!!! It can also be accessed through your Kindle E-Reader. They also offer discounts for Prime members and additional children.

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Also if you have teens that like to play games Twitch is now free with Prime!

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    • After the trial period, Fresh membership is $14.99 per month and Prime membership is $10.99 for the monthly plan. – Available in all major metro areas in the US and growing. Enter zip code when signing up to check for availability.



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 DIY How to bring an old piece furniture back to life!

With Bonus Chalk Painting Tutorial and Recipe


My 23-year-old daughter just moved into a new to her home. As usual, she immediately calls me with the list of what she “has to have.” This is the daughter that doesn’t like to do anything resembling art. Just messing with you baby, you know I love making things for you! One of the items she asked for was a microwave cart.  So I go to look through all the “I can’t throw this away, I will redo it one day!” pile and came up with this cart. I can’t even remember where this microwave cart came from. It had to be one of the ‘gifts’ I received from one of my customers at the store.

I’m sorry this has taken so long to get back around too!

You can use these same steps with any piece of furniture!

Along with the list of materials needed I have added easily to use links to the product on Amazon. I don’t know about you but I have gotten so attached to Prime! I don’t know what I did without it!!! If you are not familiar with Amazon Prime or haven’t seen it lately, it has SO much to offer now! Between Prime Pantry, Kindle, Amazon Video, 2-day shipping, and now a monthly membership that cost me the about the same as Netflix I use it several times a week! Read SAVING MONEY ON AMAZON here.


MATERIALS – furniture prep for DIY Microwave Cart Makeover Tutorial:

How to prep your furniture

  1. remove all of hardware and doors if any. *helpful tip* put hardware into a ziplock back and tape to the back of piece for easy retrieval later
  2. sand – YAY we don’t have to do this part! Because I am using chalk paint it is not needed! If you are not using chalk paint:
    • use a medium grit sandpaper to rough up the surface in order for the paint to adhere.
  3. wipe the piece down with A damp cloth (I like microfiber it doesn’t leave anything behind)
  4. keep the area as dust free as possible while painting and until the paint is dry

Chalk Paint Recipe

Materials list – chalk paint:


When recipes came out for chalk paint I tried them all!!! Whatever you do please do not try to do with plaster of paris, it made my piece feel like sandpaper! This is what I found to work the best and have used on over 700 pieces of furniture.

  1. Add your paint to a container (I use old ice cream containers with lids so I can cover and save what I have left between coats) taking note of how thick it is.
  2. Stir in approximately one tablespoon of sifted dry non-sanded grout to each cup of paint. I say approximately because I never measure, a little more or less will not hurt anything. You really want to sift the grout first to remove clumps and keep your paint as smooth as you can.
    • You want your paint to have a pancake batter type of consistency. If the paint is to think we can fix it in the next step. If it is to thin add a little more grout.
  3. Mix in Floetrol. 1/2 oz per cup of paint (1/2 oz = 1 tablespoon). Again this measurement isn’t a steadfast rule. You can add a little more if your paint is to thick. You also can add some if your paint has thickened after sitting (covered) between coats.
    • Floetrol is used to help eliminate brush marks it also helps to improve the flow and workability of your paint. Floetrol also allows the paint to adjust to more difficult conditions.


Materials Needed – painting your piece:

  • Paint – Chalk Paint Recipe
  • Paint Brush – Purdy is my goto for paint brushes. This is one place I have found you actually do get what you pay for!
    • If your willing to pay more for a really good brush (makes a big difference) – Find it here on Amazon
    • Inexpensive brush – I’ve stated several times all my links go to items I have used and feel good about. I’m sorry I can’t in good faith give you a link here for a brush that is cheaper.
    • If you rather have a brush that isn’t a Purdy brand brush I also have used Wooster when a hardware store didn’t have Purdy. I have used and like this one as well, it isn’t cheaper than the Purdy – Find it here on Amazon
  • Painters tape
    • I use Frog Multi-Surface Find it here on Amason
    • Less expensive brand (be careful with this brand, go over it several times after putting it where you want to make sure it has adhered well. It still may bleed some. – Find it here on Amazon


  1. Use painters tape to tape off any areas you don’t want paint on such as any remaining hardware. Also, you can tape around the top of the piece or tape newspaper to the top since we doing a resin pour.
  2. Paint the piece in long even strokes all going in the same direction.
  3. After this coat is dry do an additional coat if necessary.

Resin Fluid Pour

LOVE doing fluid pours and have watched YouTube videos for hours on end of different techniques. I ran across Suzana Dancks and fell in love with using resin instead of just paint on my pours. Here are a few videos to get you started that I really enjoy watching. Seeing several can give you ideas for how you would like to do your pours as well as a few different techniques.

I really enjoy watching Suzana Dancks, she is down to earth and a lot of fun to watch! She also has a playlist just for “newbies.”

Resin Obsession also has a resin painting playlist.

If you haven’t done any type of fluid pours I suggest that you play with it some prior to doing it on your piece of furniture. I did a lot of acrylic pours prior to working with resin. The resin is very expensive and I wanted to get down the pouring technique prior to working with the resin. There are several different types of pours you can do. I will do an article on the types of pours as well as different recipes in the next few weeks and will update this with a link once it is up. In the meantime, I suggest starting with acrylic pours and go from there. One of the first videos I watched on acrylic pours was by Danny Clark. He also has a first-time pour playlist with the recipes included.

Materials list:



Complete all steps you can prior to mixing your resin. Once the resin is mixed you only have a small amount of working time prior to the resin starting to harden.

  1. Lay plastic, newspaper, drop cloth or something to protect your floor.
  2. Tape off any area you do not want resin on.
  3. You would normally level your canvas/work surface. Since we are working on a piece of furniture it should be level. It wouldn’t hurt to check to be absolutely sure. If your surface isn’t level your resin will move and your finished piece will not be the same as when you left it.
  4. Measure and mix:

    The amount of resin you will need for your full surface. ArtResin has a fantastic calculator for this! Check your particular resin for mixing ratios. All of the resin I have used in the U.S. has a mixing ratio of 1:1. This is by volume, NOT  weight! I have seen on some tutorials when I was first starting out stating that you can measure either way. I have used 5 different types of resin. The consistency of the resin in each and every one them is much thicker, more syrup like, than the hardener is. Therefore the same amount of resin will weigh more than the hardener.

    • Make sure to follow the mixing directions for your resin to the T
    • Keep in mind the working temp of your resin! This is very important in working time, the flow of the resin, and if your resin will set properly.
    • Mix the resin for at least 6 minutes, more or less dependent on the amount you are mixing
    • After mixing pour into another container and mix again to be sure that it is mixed thoroughly
  5. Separate your mixed resin into different containers for each color. I like to save some of the clear resin for a ‘just in case’ situation.
    • If you are coloring with mica powder add the mica to the container first
    • If you are coloring with anything other than powder add the color last
    • This step does make a difference
  6. Adding color:
    • Remember when choosing your color some is transparent and some are opaque. It doesn’t matter how much you add if your color is transparent it will not become opaque.
    • When adding your color I have found it best to add a little less than I think I need. *A good place to start is to mix in about 2% of color to the resin. You can always add more but can’t take it away once it’s added.
    • As stated in the previous step, if you are coloring with mica powder you need to add it to your container prior to adding the resin. If you want to add more once mixed get another container, add the mica powder into the empty container and mix in the colored resin to that.
    • *DO NOT ADD MORE THAN 5% of color pigment to the resin. It can cause the resin to be soft and/or cure incorrectly.
  7. Pouring resin onto the surface:
    • The resin flows easier when it has already been coated with some resin. I like to pour my main color first and use my gloved hand to spread it over the surface. Make sure not to pour the resin to close to the edge. This is a fluid process and even with a leveled surface the resin is self-leveling and will move to the edges and some are bound to flow off of the edge.
    • Start pouring your colors where you want them to be. I start out with a vision of how I want my finished piece to look and go from there. Don’t get upset if it doesn’t turn out exactly the way you envisioned, the resin has a mind of its own and rarely ends up exactly where you want it to be.
    • I am sorry to say I don’t have the pictures of my original pour. The reason you are seeing resin poured on top of resin is that I didn’t like the original pour. You can also do multilayers to create a 3-D look.
    • Use a torch to remove air bubble.
    • Use a heat gun and/or blow dryer to move your resin around.
    • Continue adding colors and moving them around until you have the results you like

Please share and like! 

Please leave any comments or questions below!




*Taken from Surfboard Resin Color Tint and Pigment Amount Guide